Climbing in Sweden
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Climbing in Sweden

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[redigera] Introduction

The Swedish soil rests on ancient bedrock. Much of the land has only gentle hills. Nevertheless there is quite a few good spots for climbing: predominately single pitch cragging and bouldering. There is good climbing close to more or less all major cities.

That said, the only world class climbing area in Sweden is Bohuslän. First and foremost for its trad-cragging, but the sportclimbing in Bohuslän is as good as any in the country.

Gothenburg / Göteborg has some really decent climbing as well (sport, trad and bouldering) and is only 50 miles down the coast from Bohuslän.

South of Stockholm there are quite a few, mostly shorter crags, with a variety of single pitch trad- and sportclimbing.

Kjugekull, not far from Malmö in the southernmost part of Sweden has the best bouldering.

The best single sport climbing crag in Sweden is in Niemisel in the north.

Topos in English

[redigera] Grading system

In Sweden Nordic grades are used for grading free-climbing routes. The Nordic grade-system is nothing but a severely sand-bagged version of the UIAA system. The gradesteps are wide, and often varies quite a lot between different areas; therefore many sport climbing areas use the French grading system. It is becoming more and more common to see Nordic grades for trad-routes and French grades for sport-routes even for routes on the same crag. Luckily the use of the old Swedish bouldering grades have been replaced by Font grades. See this grade comparison chart for more information.

[redigera] Where to find what

[redigera] Alpine

Don't bother. Really. Go to Norway. If you must, much of the alpine climbing is centred around Kebnekaise close to Kiruna in the north. There is also some alpine climbing in Jämtland, mostly around Sylarna.

[redigera] Bouldering

The best area for Bouldering in Sweden is Kjugekull outside Kristandstad. Some other areas are well worth visiting, including Hönö (Gothenburg), Stennäset (Falun), Various areas around Stockholm and Uppsala, Bergafjärden and Alnö (Sundsvall) and Skravelsjö (Umeå).

List of bouldering areas

[redigera] Ice

List of ice climbing spots

Isblocket

[redigera] Indoor climbing

List of climbing gyms

[redigera] Sport and trad

[redigera] Sportclimbing

The best sportclimbing crags are

[redigera] Tradclimbing

Trad single pitch areas:

  • Various crags in Bohuslän (From 3+ to 9, mostly around 6–8). Bohuslän is really in a class by itself and way better than anywhere else. The only drawback is the severe lack of quality moderate climbing.
  • Ringkallen (Höga kusten) (From 4 to 8-, mostly around 5-–6)
  • A few crags around Stockholm.
  • Ã…gelsjön and Simonsberget (Norrköping)
  • Utby and surrounding areas (Gothenburg)

Trad 2-3 pitches For people who like their routes to be longer than 60-70 m there are not many quality offerings, but some decent shorter multipitch routes can be found in Sweden, among them:

Crags

Map of crags

[redigera] Articles about climbing in Sweden

[redigera] Swedish climbing movies

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